9 Nov 2012

Flødeboller part 50.000 (or III, but who’s counting?)

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Susceptible to flattery as I am, a recent comment on my old flødebolle-post here made me very happy. And also very hungry for flødeboller. So I decided to talk you through a four-round match of Heidi vs. Flødebollen. Take a ringside seat and keep a towel handy as there might be some chocolate staining ahead:

FIRST ROUND: I tried this recipe from an old ad for Magasin (Danish department store) with a few tweaks of my own. The result was very delicious, although not quite the eye candy I had hoped for. I had some trouble distributing the melted chocolate evenly so some of them ended up looking a bit blobby and unevenly covered.

SECOND ROUND: Was at the cooking class by A XOCO, where about eight of us were allowed to experiment with all of the professional equipment and expertise of the chocolatier in charge. From that course I learnt two very important lessons:

1) Using a better recipe for the meringue filling makes it sturdier and hence much easier to cover in chocolate. See the recipe by head chocolatier Jesper Rahbek from A XOCO here.

2) Covering the marzipan base with chocolate before adding the meringue keeps the flødeboller perky and fresh for a lot longer.

THIRD ROUND: (which at this time was no longer an attempt but a full-on mission) at homemade flødeboller. I ganged up with fellow foodie and blogger Sarah and our two boys, Johan and Bue, who ended up getting caught by the flødebolle bug, standing on the side, eager to be the next one covering the babies in chocolate or shaping the perfect meringue tower on the marzipan bases. And what a great factory we made in Sarah and Johan’s kitchen, ending up with three different flavours:

1) “Plain” vanilla and honey (the kind we used had so much flavour that it ended up being far from the neutral vanilla base as planned). Sprinkled with grated coconut.

2) Liquorice (powdered liquorice extract and salmiaksalt  a.k.a. ammonium chloride – not pictured above) sprinkled with raw liquorice powder from Johan Bülow

3) Raspberry (freeze dried raspberries from Spar Gourmet, my new favourite supermarket concept in Vienna. Since then they’ve become available in several specialty shops in Copenhagen).

Above are vanilla and raspberry in all their glory (sorry, the liquorice was gone by then)! Note that the vanilla ones with coconut topping were made on a plain wafer base (called Smörgåsrån which you can find in the crispbread section in most Swedish supermarkets), because we ran out of marzipan and wanted to try the classic combo from before flødeboller became an artisan discipline. They were really good and light and I ended up having far too many.

FOURTH ROUND:  I’m very impressed if you made it this far in my nerd-ologue, but at least the K.O. is just around the corner:  The result of Saturday’s work were the three flødeboller pictured at the very top of this post. We made liquorice again and the other half (almonds/pistachios) were with the same coffee-flavoured filling, covered in coffee chocolate.

What I learned:

1) Balance the meringue-topped marzipan on a wide-toothed fork (or a chocolate dipping fork if you’re feeling gadgety) over the chocolate bowl while covering it in melted chocolate.  That way you can tap the fork carefully on the side of the bowl and force any excess chocolate to drip back into the bowl, making the layer on the flødebolle nice and thin so you don’t squash it with the first bite.

2) Since the chocolate-covering is quite a time consuming affair, I really recommend that you leave the chocolate bowl in the bain marie (saucepan with a tiny bit of hot water over which you put the chocolate bowl for melting) as it keeps the chocolate runny for longer.

3) I have always been very annoyed that none of the artisan-flødebolle makers seemed to get the coffee flavour quite right. I don’t know what they do, but I used a liquid coffee extract I bought in Paris (Galeries Lafayette I think) and it was very easy to use, did not mess up the texture of the meringue and the flavour was spot on. Especially with the added crunch of a Savannah coffee chocolate on top. If you don’t have Galeries Lafayette around the corner, you can probably use either ground instant coffee or try to make your own liquid coffee extract by reducing coffee with a little water and a tiny bit of sugar until it has a thick espresso consistency.

The winning shot shows the liquorice flødebolle doing a full-on Basic Instinct, the only pose befitting of a winner:


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9 Responses to “Flødeboller part 50.000 (or III, but who’s counting?)”

  1. […] lemon mousse ready for filling layer-cakes or swiss rolls. As for the meringue, well, you know what to do. Moving on to the actual recipes… Lemon and Meringue […]

  2. Katherine says:

    I have been inspired by your post. Although I have never eaten one of these beauties before, I am taking on the challenge to make them. I live in the US and am hitting some hurdles in terms of accessing some of the key ingredients but will overcome that, unless you know of a source here in the US that you can share with me. I can order the raw liquorice powder from Johan Bülow and perhaps the dried raspberries as you referenced but would love an easier local source if possible.

    It would be wonderful if we could communicate off line if you are open to that. Otherwise, I will follow the basic recipe from your prior post, try to find the wafers and marzipan – since I want to try both combos. I am open to any suggestions of a recipe a first timer should try.

    I am a cook, so this does not frighten me, I just want to get start on the right path for the first time, as well as do you the honor of making them as beautifully as you have.

    Thank you for your lessons learned as well!

  3. Heidi says:

    Hi Katherine,

    Thanks for your comment – am delighted that you were inspired. Makes it worth while to write posts as long as that;-) Will get back to you via email.



  4. Nicola says:

    Hi I really want to make these. I’ve been looking for a recipe since my daughter became addicted to them in Denmark. You mention the ‘better’ meringue recipe but don’t give it. Is is possible to have your improved flodeboller recipe

  5. Heidi says:

    Hi Nicola

    I am very sorry to have kept you waiting for this long, but I have not been keeping track of comments on my blog as I am working frantically to finish my Ph.D.-thesis these days. Anyway, I don’t want you and your daughter to be without flødeboller now that the weather has turned and we all need some extra goodies to get by. The recipe for the “superior” meringue filling is the one mentioned in this post. One full recipe is plenty.

    Hope you’ll enjoy it!


  6. deb says:

    Eureka! After many, many searches for the correct flødeboller recipe, yours is the best and has the best tips and method. I appreciate your diligent research. I will be making them for a Julefrokost here in Florida in December. Mange, mange tak :0)

  7. Heidi says:

    Hi Deb

    I’m extremely pleased that you found my post useful. I’ve noticed that quite a few Americans (or readers from that area anyway) have an interest in flødeboller. Is it the kinship with s’mores or marshmallows, I wonder? Anyway, I’d love to see a picture of your result, if you feel like sharing?
    Enjoy your julefrokost!


  8. deb says:

    I lived in Denmark as a child and later in my 20’s and love flødeboller among so many other delectable Danish delights. My DH has begged me to make them for him and now I will. What do you think about using marshmallow fluff? Will it stand up to the chocolate covering I wonder? BTW love your sense of humor! The basic instinct ref was hilarious~

  9. Heidi says:

    Hi Deb!

    I’m glad you liked the humour as well as the recipe – both are equally important to me. About the marshmallow fluff, we don’t have that in Denmark so I’m not sure. But I would give it a go and just make sure to leave it to “air dry” on the marzipan/wafer base for a while before trying to cover it in chocolate. If not, you could try to do an upside-down flødebolle by using a praline mould to create a chocolate shell which you then fill with the fluff and close with a lid of marzipan or chocolate. That might work too. Do let me know if it works for you.

    Kind regards,


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